▻ Omnibus XXXV
Brought to you by our Founder Sponsor SANTA RITA ESTATES.
Episode Summary:-
There is never a shortage of interesting stories happening in the wine world, and our first Omnibus of 2025 is no exception. We take a look at good news, inspiring news, exciting news (yes, it includes dogs) and just downright ugly news.
First up, the good news. John Stimpfig reports on the 2023 Burgundy vintage, which has just been released En Primeur. He declares it to be a good vintage (rather than great) for both reds and whites. There is a decent quantity, with alcohol levels at around 13-13.5%, and prices mainly stable on 2022. He reports that “prices would have probably, almost certainly, been cheaper for the 2023s had 2024 vintage not delivered such miserable quantities.”
The ugly news is another case of modern slavery hitting the headlines, this time in the Piedmont, Italy. John discusses how the outsourcing of labour during the harvest is leading, in some cases, to criminal gang masters employing migrants working under appalling conditions. While the President of the local Conzorsio declares it a “one off,” local producer Matteo Ascheri states that it is more common, and believes that a code of ethics is needed.
It's the time of year for the large trade shows, where many a deal is done, and the profile of what will appear on the shelves is decided. Sarah and John look at the rivalry between ProWein and Wine Paris, evaluating why Paris is gaining considerable ground, and discuss which countries are heading to Paris to show their wares.
We also look back on the life of Yannis Boutaris, who did so much to put Greek wine and tourism on the map. Apart from his incredible contribution to the wine world, he was an environmentalist and politician, who created an organisation to protect wild bears and wolves.
One of the most inspiring stories this month has to be that of Davy Zyw, Berry Brothers & Rudd’s buyer for Champagne and Italy, who was diagnosed at the age of 30 with Motor Neurone Disease (MND), an incurable and degenerative disease that impairs motor neurone nerves, and leads to the muscles weakening, affecting movement, talking, eating, drinking and breathing. He has already completed some astounding feats, including a 2700-kilometre cycle ride, to raise funds for MND research. His latest venture is the most ambitious yet: He has launched a bid to be the first person with Motor Neurone Disease to compete at the Winter Paralympics in Milan, in the snowboard event. He is well on his way to qualifying, but is seeking funds to help pay for travel to the qualifying heats. Truly, a remarkable story of resilience and inspiration from a member of the wine community who is determined to take on extraordinary challenges. To support Davy Zyw, please go to his justgiving.com page.
There is also true excitement at The Wine Conversation with the news of an experiment using dogs’ highly developed sense of smell by the Lodi Winegrape Commission’s Stephanie Bolton, who is in charge of grower research and education. Malbec, a black labrador, Sauvi Blanc, an English Springer Spaniel, Cab, a German Short-Haired Pointer, and Zinny, another spaniel, have been set the task of sniffing out disease-causing grapevine pests, including mealybugs and leafroll virus. The initial results are incredibly encouraging, with more than a 90% detection rate. What next, we wonder? Could dogs be used to detect cork taint in future?
Over in the US, Elin McCoy takes a look at the latest Silicon Valley Bank Wine Report, the US wine industry’s report card. There is good or bad news, depending on whether you are a producer or consumer. There is currently an oversupply of grapes due to declining sales, which is putting pressure on pricing, a plus for consumers. The reason for the decline in sales are younger people are drinking less wine and turning to other beverages, plus, Americans (49% in the latest survey) have said they plan to drink less in 2025 due to health concerns.
By the time you read this, the situation may well have changed in the US, but on Trump Watch, Elin describes the dismay amongst US wine producers when tariffs were announced on Canada and Mexico. Canada is the US wine industry’s largest export market (10% of its production heads to Canada, US$ 1 billion revenue). The liquor boards of Ontario and Quebec, the largest two importers, announced that, as retaliatory measures, they would clear their shelves of all US alcoholic beverages. As we write, there has been a delay in implementing Trump’s 25% tariff, but producers’ nerves are certainly frayed. To add to their woes, they are waiting to hear about the deportation of immigrants. Almost all California vineyards rely on immigrant labour from Mexico for numerous tasks, especially harvesting.
On a much cheerier note, the Naples Wine Auction, in Florida, the world’s largest wine charity auction, raised US$34 million for children’s charities. Back in New York, Elin attended the UGC tasting of the 2022 vintage of Bordeaux, which – despite the line that Bordeaux is not popular – was packed. Her three tips for value are Châteaux Lagrange, de Pez and Canon La Gafflière.
To end on a sweeter note, Elin confessed that her ideas about wine have been totally turned upside down. An invitation to taste four older vintages of Château d’Yquem with director of winemaking Lorenzo Pasquini could not be missed, nor a chance to eat at Michelin-starred sushi restaurant Sushi Nakazawa in Manhattan. She was not expecting to enjoy the combination, but was totally dumbfounded to find that Sauternes and Sushi is a brilliant combination. Her favourite match, 2010 Yquem from a 3-litre bottle, and fatty tuna, was “just sublime” Elin reports. The good news is that the combination is on the menu at Sushi Nakazawa – a reason to get on a plane to New York, indeed.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 17.45
“It is also fair to say prices (of Burgundy) would have probably, almost certainly, been cheaper for the 2023s had the 2024 vintage not delivered such miserable quantities.” – John Stimpfig
– Burgundy 2023 report by John Stimpfig.
– Modern Slavery in the Piedmont.
– ProWein vs. Wine Paris. -
17.46 – 33.00
“In a small number of cases, some of the workers being used are being provided by criminal gangs.” – John Stimpfig
– Remembering Yannis Boutaris.
– Berry Bros’s Davy Zwy’s bid to participate in Winter Olympics.
– Research project using dogs to detect mealybugs and leafroll viruses in vines. -
33.01 – 44.04
“What is bad for the wine industry in some ways is good for the consumer." – Elin McCoy
– The Silicon Valley Bank wine report – declining sales, and an oversupply of grapes.
– Trump update – US wine producers’ nervousness about tariff implications.
– Immigrant labour in US vineyards concerns. -
42.05 – 05.18
“Yquem and sushi were fantastic together.” – Elin McCoy
– Naples Wine Auction results.
– UGC 2022 Bordeaux tasting and Elin’s three wines to look out for.
– Yquem and Sushi – Elin has her opinions turned upside down.
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This month Burgundy 2023 report, Elin McCoy’s best value Bordeaux 2022, modern slavery In vineyards, dogs detecting vine diseases and lots more.