▻ Sebastián Labbé – The 2024 Chilean Vintage

Let's Talk With

25 May

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Sebastián Labbé of Santa Rita Estates

Brought to you courtesy of Founder Sponsor Santa Rita Estates

Episode Summary:-

Sarah Kemp talks to Sebastián Labbé, chief winemaker of Santa Rita premium wines, about Chile’s 2024 harvest. Sebastián was born in Chile, but trained in New Zealand and Australia; he was recently named one of the “100 Best Winemakers in the World” by the British publication Drinks Business. Santa Rita has vineyards in all the important regions: Maipo, Apalta, Colchagua, Leyda, Limari, Casablanca, and Maule, so how, she asks, does he manage to juggle the vintage? “There’s a lot of driving, and planning,” he says amiably, “luckily it is a very extended vintage.” He explains that the vintage extended from January to April this year, meaning a lot of time driving among the vineyards; for example, once or twice a week he would drive four hours north up to Limari, where their finest Chardonnay is grown. The vintage was slightly cooler than normal, below the historical average, and he confesses that every drop of water is like gold.

““I think that Limari was for me one of the outstanding results of the year. The Chardonnays from up there have this beautiful character, they are very subtle in the mouth, very austere, but beautiful acidity.””

— Sebastian Labbé

The Spring was cold (January to April) and then super-hot. “I think it was a vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon, that patience was something very important.” The question of when to pick is a crucial one and Sebastián believes that, while he relies on the science, in the past few years he has become a more intuitive winemaker: “The vines, the landscape, they are always telling you something.” The 2024 vintage reminds Sebastián of 2020, except the Spring was cold. The flavour profile of 2024 is more like 2021, very vibrant. He reveals that he was slightly worried in March, but the very extended season helped Cabernet Sauvignon, and he picked most of the Cabernet from March 12/15th to 24th April. The other variety Sebastián champions is Carménère — there’s much more fine-tuning going on, and he is trying to show Carménère fresher, which is why he is picking early in spots like Apalta.

Climate change has thrown its challenges, as it has for winemakers everywhere. Sebastián explains how at Santa Rita they have increased the biodiversity among the crops, changed the canopy management, and been more efficient with water. “We need to adapt our vinification and farming techniques to climate,” he says, certain that water retention is crucial to the future.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 10.13

“I think, for me, that Limari was one of the outstanding results of the year.” – Sebastián Labbé

– How Sebastián describes his work day during the vintage.
– The weather conditions leading up to the 2024 harvest.
– The areas and varieties which did particularly well in 2024.
– Sebastián’s picking philosophy.
10.14 – 21.19

“The vines, the landscape, they are always telling you something.” – Sebastián Labbé

– The difference between the regions in Chile in 2024.
– Carménère – why Sebastián is a fan.
– How Santa Rita Estates is adapting to climate change.