✒ Gravner – The Road Not Taken
Gravner Tasting.
by Sarah Kemp
“Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less travelled by, And that has made all the difference” – Robert Frost
An invitation by Zubair Mohamed of Raeburn Fine Wines to a vertical tasting of Gravner wines conducted by Josko Gravner’s daughter Mateja, the fourth generation of the Gravner family, was one not to be missed. Orange or amber wine is still controversial, still dividing wine lovers – for many, the colour alone is symbolic of the free-for-all hippy-dippy, unsulphured, natural wine movement, a dubious beverage which your classical wine lover wouldn’t dream of pouring into their Riedel glass. Today, however, the natural wine movement is growing beyond a fringe group, judging by the success of natural wine in restaurants across the globe and the phenomenal success of wine events such as RAW, which attracted 3,000 visitors to London. The polarisation of the two tribes, however, seems to remain as divisive as our current politics, which is a shame, as curiosity and discovery are so rewarding for wine lovers, and too many may be missing out on some extraordinary wines.
The father of the modern “orange” winemaking movement is Josko Gravner (though he prefers his wines to be described as amber), whose winery is on the border between Collio, in the province of Gorizia, in Italy, and Brda, in Slovenia. His daughter Mateja explained how, in 1987, he travelled to California, but returned disappointed with how modern technological techniques made so many wines taste the same. It was the start of his belief that “technology is the limit, rely on technology and you put a limit on your own work.”
He was an early believer in the importance of vineyards not being monocultures and planted a variety of trees and plants on his terraces, (30 years later, this is happening at Châteaux Cheval Blanc and other prestigious wineries in Bordeaux and California). But it was a hailstorm in 1996 that destroyed 95% of the production that led him to a new path, when he had the chance to experiment fermenting half the remaining grapes with their skins, and half without. The results were clear, he decided, and the next year he ditched the barriques and stainless-steel tanks and turned to the big wooden vats his father used to use, allowing maceration without temperature control.
Gravner is also credited with his role in popularising the use of amphoras. In search of authenticity, he travelled to Georgia and ordered large earthenware amphoras (the first delivery was a disaster, Mateja confides, nine out of 12 arrived broken). Today, the cellar contains 47 amphoras, which are buried in the earth. “Amphora takes longer than oak to develop” Mateja reveals. Experimentation is in his blood, and he is now looking at glass vessels.
Gravner turning his back on modern technology, embracing nature, and setting out to sell a wine style which had no following, is all the more remarkable as he did it in the 1990s when Robert Parker’s power was at his height. Mateja laughed as she explained that her father didn’t care about the sales, he just wanted to make the wine he believed in.
The wines we were poured were Ribolla Gailla and Pignolo, a rare local red grape. Gravner’s wines are not released until seven years after harvest, and we started with the youngest, a Gravner Ribolla Gailla 2016, followed by the 2014, 2012 and 2010 vintages, then a pair of Rosso Breg Pignolo, 2008 and 2007. Mateja emphasised it was important to serve the wines at cellar temperature rather than chilled.
Looking at the dramatic contrast presented by the line-up of amber liquid in front of me, Robert Frost’s poem The Road not Taken came to mind, with its lines, “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less travelled by, and that has made all the difference.” Gravner’s road is certainly different in that he has extended the parameters of fine wine, certainly made our vinous world much more interesting and diverse. And if it’s also quite challenging as well, why not consider that a virtue too?
Sarah Kemp.
Wine Notes:- my three favourite wines
2016 Gravner Ribolla Gailla
Bright amber, on the nose notes of herbs and peach, full-bodied, rich unctuous fruit, very long and pure, chalky texture, the wine open ups revealing more facets, oregano, mandarin, summer hay, changing every few minutes, a wonderful saline finish. A wine not to rush.
Stockist: Raeburn Fine Wines £90
2012 Gravner Ribolla Gailla
My wine of the tasting. Beautifully scented complex floral nose, rich, intense, powerful palate of firm fresh clementines and white stone fruit, full-bodied but with a delicious saline note. Complex and intriguing and a wine I would be happy to serve to any doubter that there are amber wines which stand up with the great wines of the world.
Stockist: Italian Wine Selection £169 per magnum
2007 Gravner Rosso Breg Pignolo
Pignolo is a rare native grape, one which Gravner is championing. Fermented on the skins in large wooden vats with no temperature control, the wine exudes faded rose petals on the nose, there are masses of energy here, deep dense core of mulberries and wild cherries, with hints of leather. A wonderful streak of acid running through, giving delicious freshness, with hints of mint on the finish.
Stockist: Raeburn Fine Wines £175
RELATED POSTS
Keep up with our adventures in wine
Sarah Kemp attends a vertical of Gravner, the father of the modern orange wine movement, and asks “are classical wine lovers missing out?”