✒ Connoisseur Week 2024
by Sarah Kemp
I feel about Connoisseur Week the same as I do about Christmas Eve – sheer excitement, and wondering if the anticipation of what is ahead will live up to my high expectations, and more importantly, our guests.
Jane Anson and I spend hours discussing the programme each year, trying to balance visiting the great estates with a few surprises, to be sure we’ll truly give a rounded and very personal picture of “our Bordeaux.” I’m happy to report that my expectations (and, happily, our guests’) were not only met, but well exceeded. How could they not be when you are dining at a rose-strewn table at Château Latour and then hosted by the incredibly charming Thomas Duroux at Château Palmer, both in one day, and another night dining in the most desirable kitchen in the Médoc at Château La Lagune with Jean-Guillaume Prats, drinking old vintages of Léoville-Las-Cases? Then, time to go home on those high notes? No, not with more fabulous memories to come, a vineyard tour and tasting at Château Lafleur followed by dining under the stars at Château L’Evangile, drinking an unbelievable 1961 vintage in magnum with Saskia de Rothschild and her talented team. More: On the penultimate day, meeting two wine legends, Peter Sisseck at Château Rocheyron and the original bad boy of Bordeaux, Jean-Luc Valandraud, who started the garagiste movement. At that point, I think our guests were wondering what the hell would happen on the last day. Well, we had a big surprise in store, courtesy of the magician of Bordeaux, none other than François Janoueix, who had invited us to his beautiful home by the river. A horse and trap took us to the chapel of Condat, built in the 11th century and beautifully restored, followed by oysters and wine and lunch in his orangerie, where we drank vintages of great wines back to 1947. It was as close to heaven as it is possible to get! It seemed fitting that the final memory after the Michelin-starred BBQ at Château Troplong Mondot was of a brass band parading out and playing as we left, music drifting magically into the night.
Jane Anson has full tasting notes on her site, www.janeanson.com, but here are some of my favourite memories and, of course, wines.
Château Léoville-Las-Cases – a tough first night deciding which wine was my favourite, the 1996 or the 1970. The 1996 had that library nose, cedar, graphite, cassis, power but perfect balance, very long and beguiling, a truly stunning beauty. The 1970 reminded me of how often we forget how good this vintage can be. The aromatics on the nose were astonishing, wave upon wave of youthful bramble fruit, masses of energy, so vibrant and young. A fabulous pair.
Château Latour – we were blessed with one of the most eloquent guides, Katherine Cross, who took us on a two-and-a-half-hour immersive tour of the vineyard and cellar. Highlight: seeing five ladies wearing hair-nets checking each and every cork, and not just for the grand vin, but right down to their third wine, Pauillac. There were 13 buckets to put the rejects in, each marked with a different fault. The attention to detail was extraordinary. Favourite wine? Château Latour 2004 – still seems young though 20 years old, bags of energy, muscular frame holding classical cassis and lead pencil, precise and utterly moreish.
Château Palmer – possibly my favourite food and wine combination of the week. A roast lobster, peas, olive oil with herbs and flowers from Palmer’s garden matched with a rare Vin Blanc de Château, made from Muscadellle, Loset and Sauvignon Gris. Richness met richness, but the streak of fresh acidity cut through, allowing both the dish and wine to work in harmony. The 1989 Château Palmer provided a dense core of mature loganberries, leather notes, very fine silky tannins, with long lip-smacking finish. The sunset wasn’t bad either!
Château Lafleur – if there is a more passionate person in Bordeaux than Ralista Todorieva in Bordeaux I’d like to meet them. Ralista is part of Lafleur’s small team, and my memory will be of a person who was fixated that we understood every vine and what it contributed to Lafleur: A masterclass in vineyard management. Difficult to pick out a favourite as, all so distinct, but if pushed I’d choose 2015 Château Lafleur, hugely aromatic on the nose, then a seductive intensity which builds and builds, rich note of dark chocolate, wild herbs, power and finesse here, delicious now but will last for years.
Château L’Evangile – a table under the tree laden with glasses, an Argentinian chef preparing an asado with the juiciest streaks and pork imaginable, smoke rising, the smell drifting across the vineyards. Saskia de Rothschild, Juliette Couderc and Olivier Trégoat showing us the vines, 17 treatments already for mildew in a wet, wet Spring. Then dinner on a long table under the stars. Wine of the night – Château L’Evangile 1961 from magnum, in two words, beyond beauty.
Château Rocheyron – meeting a personal hero of mine, Peter Sisseck, at his 8.45 hectares of St. Emilion’s limestone plateau. As ever, Peter was full of wisdom and dry humour. Favourite wine? Hard again, so much to love but the 2016 was glorious, rich, dense core of vibrant blue and red fruit, very fine tannins, extraordinary length, power and finesse combined.
Château Valandraud – Friday night seemed to be a great night to meet the original Bad Boy of Bordeaux, Jean-Luc Thunevin with his charming wife, Murielle Andraud. First, though, a stop to where it all started in the garage in down St Emilion, before heading to the impressive château with one of the best views in St Emilion. We were all held spellbound as he talked emotionally about how he had nearly gone bankrupt and how supportive his wife had been. Favourite wine, the 2009, rich powerful core of plush fruit, great tension, layers of dark chocolate and forest herbs. Opening up in the glass, so just getting better and better, long saline finish. Delicious.
A day with François Janoueix – my strongest memory is the huge and consistent smile on François Janoueix ‘s face as he enjoyed seeing the reaction to the stunning array of great wines he produced from his cellar to celebrate each of our guest’s birth years. One guest decided he would book two spots next year, but his companion would have to be born in 1959 or 1982. The maxim of Len Evans that there are no great wines, only great bottles, was never truer. Haut Brion 1963 and 1976 Haut Bailly were not in good form, leaving the stars to be Château Bouscaut 1947, closely followed by Château La Fleur-Pétrus 1960. The 1947 had an extraordinary perfumed nose, the fruit still firm, beautiful sous-bois flavours with the silkiest of silky tannins, wave after wave of Bordeaux magic. Simply stunning. So much so, it was hard to move on. The 1955 Pichon Baron came next and was slightly overshadowed, whereas the La Fleur-Pétrus challenged the Bouscaut, with its sweet briar fruit, still fresh, with extraordinary power driving through to the final note. As a general observation, the wines from the 1970s didn’t hold up to the vintages from the 1960s, with my third favourite Château Belair 1964. A visit to the 11th century chapel at Condat, one of the great jewels of Bordeaux, which I had not visited before, completed the day. Blessed all round.
The Connoisseur Week is hosted by Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp.
For information on future Connoisseur Weeks with Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp write to hello@janeanson.com.
The 2025 Connoisseur Week takes place on 3rd-8th June 2025.
Great to meet Emanuele Reolon, the new Estate Director of Isole e Olena at the River Café for the launch of the new vintages.