✒ Biondi-Santi
The late great Italian wine expert Nick Belfrage MW once remarked, after tasting the 1891 vintage of Biondi-Santi (which he gave 10/10 points), “I hope I am in that great shape when I’m that age.”
His comment came to mind at a recent dinner at the Ritz Hotel, hosted by Biondi-Santi’s CEO, Giampiero Bertolini, where a selection of Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wines were served. It’s rare: Only 42 vintages have been released since 1888. The tasting demonstrated the extraordinary ageing ability of this great estate, with the 1975 vintage stealing the limelight. I doubt there are any 1975 vintages in Bordeaux or other fine wine regions which could hold a candle to this majestic, enchanting wine.
Biondi-Santi was founded in 1840, and in 1865 produced the first wine recognised under the name “Brunello.” In 1888, the first bottle labelled “Brunello di Montalcino” was produced by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi. Today the wines of Brunello di Montalcino are amongst Italy’s most prestigious wines, commanding prices to match its prestige.
The Tenuta Greppo estate is located two kilometres from the town of Montalcino, at an altitude of 560 metres above sea level. The estate has five specific vineyard sites on the four sides of Montalcino, chosen for their ability to complement each other in different vintages. To the east of Montalcino at a height of 370 metres is “Il Pieri” vineyard, with calcareous soils rich in schists, known locally as “galestro.” To the west lies the “Scarnacuoia” plot at 450 metres; the soil is marly schists, and the vineyard is terraced by dry-stone walls. To the north is “Pievecchia,” which lies at 200 metres, a cooler site with a higher clay content in the soil. The largest block of vineyard is around the winery at Tenuta Greppo, with vines planted on a steep terrace in the form of an amphitheatre – the oldest vines date back to the 1930s and are mixed with olive trees. (Originally the custom was to mix the olive trees with vines for sharecropping, but today it is increasingly recognised as a benefit of biodiversity). In 2019, a new plot “Ribusuoli,” was bought, just to the south-west of Tenuta Greppo, which has similar soil profile and altitude as Tenuta Greppo.
When Christopher Descours, the French owner of the EPI Group (which owns Champagne Charles Heidsieck and recently bought Chianti Classico Isola e Olena) bought the estate from Jacopo Biondi Santi in 2016, there were concerned mutterings about the French taking over an Italian treasure, but Giampiero Bertolini, who was previously with the Frescobaldi Group, said that the French were firmly across the mountains and the team at Biondi-Santi would continue to be run by Tuscan experts, the motto being “evolution, not revolution.” Today, Bertolini is in charge of Biondi-Santi and Isole e Olena, and they remain two of Italy’s most recognisable and respected names.
Bertolini explained that part of the evolution has been understanding the soil better, and thus employed Pedro Parra, the world-famous terroir expert from Chile. In 2019, Parra undertook a parcellation study, digging pits over the 32 hectares of Biondi-Santi’s vineyards. As a result of that effort, 12 parcels were identified that represented various soils, and the grapes from those diverse parcels have been harvested and vinified separately since the 2019 vintage. Along with the soil study, the team at Biondi-Santi have designed a new trellising system, with moveable horizontal bars, which allows the vine’s canopy to grow in a V-shape, allowing the wind to blow through and provide a shady and protected environment for the grape bunches. Other measures have been introduced to combat global warming: nets are used to shade the vines from the sun, and site-specific cover crops are used to enhance the soil’s microbiological life.
Biondi-Santi makes three wines, Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, made only in exceptional years.
Wine Notes:-
The wines chosen for the dinner to show the estate were:
Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2019
Aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months, the 2019 Rosso di Montalcino shows bright, uplifted autumnal fruit layered with black pepper and aromatic herbs. There is a lovely lyricism to the wine, with its firm core of fruit leading to a long finish. Elegant and refined, ready to drink now with huge pleasure. 13%. Tannico.com US$ 76.67, Vivino £72
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 2016
From a superb vintage, this young Riserva’s nose delivers aromas of mountain berries, wild roses and fresh herbs. The palate is tightly woven and shows all the ingredients to make this a classic of the future. Firm tannins contain a concentration of blackberries, wild fennel, tapenade, and flint. Lots of power and elegance here, a wine which will reward cellaring. 14%. Harvey Nichols £220, KLWines.com US$229
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 2008 “La Storica”
This vintage is still incredibly youthful. Made from very low yields, with the proprietary clone of Sangiovese Grosso called BBS11 (Brunello Biondi Santi 11), it shows a firm core of pure forest red fruit layered with white pepper, liquorice and flint. Elegant, with beautiful refined tannins, it will reward cellaring for many more years. 13.5%. BBR £725 per case, KLWines.com US$220
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 1999 “La Storica”
The 1999 vintage was cold until June, when the weather turned to dry and hot; September had a few rainfalls in the first half of the month, and the harvest was in the second half when it was dry and cold. Expressive nose, hints of incense and dried roses, on the palate an elegant structure holds together layers of pure red fruit, bitter orange, balsamic notes entwined with tobacco and flint. Quite ethereal and very long. 13%. Crump, Richmond and Shaw £433
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 1985 “La Storica”
The 1985 was made from the estate’s vines, with over 25 years of age. 1985 was a warm vintage with dry weather conditions throughout the harvest in September. On the nose there’s uplifted cherries and wild mountain herbs. The palate demonstrates restrained power – there is a muscularity to this wine, like a thoroughbred racehorse, a deep core of firm red and black fruit, while balsamic notes, green tea and cedar dance together to provide an impressive display of Tuscan aristocratic power and finesse. 13%. Hedonism £422
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva 1975 “La Storica”
A wine of heart-breaking beauty. A mesmerising complex nose with a kaleidoscope of spice, black cherry fruit and wild roses, an intense core of dried cherries, black chocolate and pepper, expressing extraordinary depth and length with a wonderful freshness. After half an hour, it takes on further dimensions, quite seamless, slightly brooding and utterly beguiling. Elegance personified; perfect to drink now, but will age for many more years to come. 12.5%. Hedonism £1140
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