▻ St-Aubin with Jasper Morris MW

10 Minute Masterclass

22 Apr

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Jasper Morris MW

Episode Summary:-

Jasper Morris MW, the author of the award-winning book “Inside Burgundy,” looks at the appellation of St-Aubin, which he regards as the fourth great white wine appellation of Burgundy. St-Aubin is situated in the southern half of the Côte de Beaune. It is planted mainly to Chardonnay, 82%, and Pinot Noir, 18%. There is more limestone on the steep slopes than clay, with 75% of the vineyards being designated Premier Cru. Jasper advises looking out for the following Premier Crus: Les Murgers des Dents de Chien (a personal favourite), En Remilly, and La Chatenière, another favourite of Jasper’s.

The best-known names include Domaine Hubert Lamy (“a bit of a cult,” he says), Domaine Marc Colin et Ses Fils, and Jean-Claude Bachelet et Fils. The one to look out for, he says, is Domaine Moingeon et Fils. The good news for wine lovers is that it is not a ridiculously expensive appellation – typically producers of St-Aubin Premier Cru are priced below or on the same level as a village Chassagne-Montrachet. Jasper describes the taste as “very clear-cut, ‘chiselled’ is the word I use quite a lot… less body than Puligny or Chassagne, arguably as much concentration, but it comes with a real electric backbone to it.” Overall, he declares, “I certainly think St-Aubin can rival the other great white Burgundy villages.”

Climate change has been largely positive for the appellation so far, because more of the side valleys are producing wine which is more interesting. The vintages he recommends are 2022, “excellent for whites,” 2021 “not bad, but drink sooner,” 2020, 2017 and 2014. Jasper advises that you get the best out of white Burgundy when you let it mature. He also notes an encouraging sign – the main new activity in St-Aubin has been the building of new wineries, as the appellation is no longer seen as a backwater.

Jasper’s obscure fact? The news that it was frowned upon for someone from Chassagne-Montrachet to cross the main road to marry someone in St-Aubin, and it is still being talked about that Marc Colin did just that, crossed the road from Chassagne-Montrachet to marry a girl from St-Aubin!

Running Order:-

0.00 – 5.48

“I think St-Aubin can rival the other great white Burgundy villages.”

– Where St-Aubin is situated.
– Its terroir and grape varieties.
– The producer names to know.
– The taste of St-Aubin.
5.49 – 10.30

“It has less body than Puligny or Chassagne, but arguably as much concentration... it comes with a real electric backbone to it.”

– How climate change has been positive for the appellation.
– Best vintages.
– Ageing potential.
– New developments in St-Aubin.
– Jasper’s obscure fact.