▴ Château Léoville Barton 2004
There are several “better” vintages of Léoville Barton on the market, namely 2005, 2009, 2010, and 2016, but 2004 is the vintage to open now if you want glorious, classical claret in its prime. It may not be as exuberant as 2009 or as well-regarded as 2016 (which was Wine Spectator Wine of the Year), but it has everything I desire from a top-class claret: balance, elegance, a firm core with complex layers of dancing blackcurrants, generous autumnal fruit and the longest, coolest finish, which only the very greatest wines deliver. I am halfway through the case I bought when it was released, and it is the wine which, every time I’ve pulled the cork, has transported me back to the Medoc – it’s been my aristocratic friend during lockdown.
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23%Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Harvested between 30th September and 11th October 2004. Aged in 60% new barrels. Around £70 a bottle. Price around £70 a bottle. Farr Vintners, Berry Brothers and Rudd, Majestic
Dec 2020, SK