▻ Cabernet Franc with Jane Anson

10 Minute Masterclass

11 Mar

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Jane Anson

Episode Summary:-

Cabernet Franc used to be thought of as Cabernet Sauvignon’s little brother, but now it’s very much a grape on the ascendance, with a following of its own, and plenty of cult wines attached. In this 10 Minute Masterclass, Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp reveal how it’s actually Bordeaux’s oldest grape variety, and a parent of both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Globally, there are around 53,000 hectares, with 31,614ha of those in France (as of 2021). It is most popular in France, with Italy and China coming in second and third. In Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc occupies 8.6% of the vineyard area.

Jane notes how it is light-to-medium-bodied, fresher and more sculpted than Cabernet Sauvignon, with a beautiful perfume in the best examples. It is important to achieve ripeness of the grape as unripe Cabernet Franc can show green vegetal notes. The most famous names from the Loire include Clos Rougeard, Olga Raffault, Domaine Grosbois, Domaine des Roches Neuves, but look out also for Bertrand Sourdais and Domaine de Pallus, a rising star in the Loire.

In Bordeaux, properties where there is a high percentage of Cabernet Franc include Château Jean Faure, Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion (highest on Left Bank), Château Cheval Blanc, Chateau Angelus, Le Dome (80% usually). Château Trotevielle does a 100% example from its oldest vines, called Les Vieilles Vignes de Trotevielle, and Chateau Marjosse does a less expensive 100% Cabernet Franc cuvee called Cuvee Ortolan. In Italy, look out for Le Macchiole, from the Bolgheri region of Tuscany.

It usually ripens at least a week earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, but later than Merlot, and suits clay-limestone soils best. One of the concerns about Cabernet Franc is that, in 2022, 78% of Cabernet Franc grafting was made with only four clones out of 31 approved in France. Vine specialist to the stars Lilian Bérillon recently warned growers about using this limited a selection: genetic diversity is the key to successful adaptation in the light of climate change.

Jane’s two obscure facts?

Chateau Jean Faure in St Emilion held the 1st Symposium for Cabernet Franc in June 2023, with around 100 scientists, oenologists, sommeliers and journalists.

In 1990, Cheval Blanc was 98% Cabernet Franc.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 6.35

"Cabernet Franc is Bordeaux’s oldest grape variety.”

– Where Cabernet Franc comes from.
– How much Cabernet Franc is planted.
– What Cabernet Franc tastes like.
– Famous estates using Cabernet Franc.
6.35 – 10.25

“In 1990, Château Cheval Blanc was 98% Cabernet Franc.”

– Where Cabernet Franc grows best.
– Issues facing Cabernet Franc - lack of clonal diversity.
– Jane’s obscure facts.